What Is the Highest Mountain on Earth Located in Artly China

2nd-highest mountain on Globe

"Chogori" redirects here. For the Korean garment, run across Jeogori.

K2
K2 from Broad Peak Base of operations Military camp
K2 People's republic of china–Pakistan border: Baltistan, Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, Mainland china Show map of Karakoram K2 Location of K2 relative to Gilgit−Baltistan Testify map of Gilgit Baltistan K2 Location of K2 relative to Xinjiang Evidence map of Xinjiang K2 Location of K2 relative to Pakistan Show map of Islamic republic of pakistan K2 Location of K2 relative to China Testify map of Red china
Highest point
Meridian	8,610 m (28,250 ft) Ranked 2nd
Prominence	4,020 thousand (xiii,190 ft) [1] Ranked 22nd
Isolation	1,316 km (818 mi)
List	Viii-thousander Seven 2nd Summits Ultra-prominent peak
Coordinates	35°52′57″N 76°30′48″E  /  35.88250°N 76.51333°E  / 35.88250; 76.51333 Coordinates: 35°52′57″North 76°30′48″E  /  35.88250°Due north 76.51333°East  / 35.88250; 76.51333 [2]
Naming
Language of proper name	Balti
Geography
Countries	Islamic republic of pakistan-administered Kashmir and China-administered Kashmir
Parent range	Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	31 July 1954; 67 years ago  (1954-07-31) Achille Compagnoni & Lino Lacedelli
Easiest route	Abruzzi Spur

K2, at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above sea level, is the second-highest mount on Earth, afterwards Mount Everest (at 8,849 metres (29,032 ft)).^[3] It lies in the Karakoram range, partially in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Islamic republic of pakistan-administered Kashmir and partially in a Communist china-administered territory of the Kashmir region included in the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous Canton of Xinjiang.^{[4] [five] [half-dozen] [a]}

K2 as well became popularly known as the Roughshod Mountain after George Bell—a climber on the 1953 American expedition—told reporters, "It'south a savage mountain that tries to kill you."^[7] Of the five highest mountains in the world, K2 is the deadliest; approximately one person dies on the mountain for every iv who reach the summit.^{[7] [viii]} Also occasionally known as Mountain Godwin-Austen,^[9] other nicknames for K2 are The King of Mountains and The Mountaineers' Mountain,^[10] besides as The Mount of Mountains after prominent Italian climber Reinhold Messner titled his book about K2 the same.^[xi]

The summit was reached for the offset time by the Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, on the 1954 Italian trek led by Ardito Desio. In January 2021, K2 became the final eight-thousander to be summited in the winter; the mountaineering feat was accomplished by a team of Nepalese climbers, led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.^{[12] [thirteen]}

K2 is the merely 8,000+ metre peak that has never been climbed from its eastern face up.^[14] Ascents have almost ever been made in July and Baronial, which are typically the warmest times of the twelvemonth; K2's more than northern location makes information technology more susceptible to inclement and colder weather.^[fifteen] The superlative has at present been climbed by almost all of its ridges. Although the summit of Everest is at a higher altitude, K2 is a more difficult and unsafe climb, due in part to its more than inclement weather condition.^[16] As of February 2021^[update], only 377 people have completed the ascent to its superlative.^[17] There have been 91 deaths during attempted climbs, according to the list maintained on the list of deaths on eight-thousanders.

Name

Montgomerie's original sketch from 1856 in which he applied the annotation K2

The name K2 is derived from notation used by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of British India. Thomas Montgomerie fabricated the showtime survey of the Karakoram from Mount Haramukh, some 210 km (130 mi) to the south, and sketched the two most prominent peaks, labelling them K1 and K2, where the K stands for Karakoram.^[18]

The policy of the Great Trigonometrical Survey was to use local names for mountains wherever possible^[b] and K1 was found to be known locally as Masherbrum. K2, yet, appeared not to have acquired a local name, possibly due to its remoteness. The mount is non visible from Askole, the last village to the south, or from the nearest habitation to the north, and is only fleetingly glimpsed from the end of the Baltoro Glacier, beyond which few local people would have ventured.^[xix] The name Chogori, derived from two Balti words, chhogo ཆོ་གྷའོ་ ("big") and ri རི ' ("mount") (چھوغوری)^[20] has been suggested as a local name,^[21] simply prove for its widespread use is scant. It may have been a compound proper noun invented by Western explorers^[22] or only a bemused answer to the question "What's that called?"^[19] It does, however, grade the basis for the name Qogir (simplified Chinese: 乔戈里峰; traditional Chinese: 喬戈里峰; pinyin: Qiáogēlǐ Fēng ) by which Chinese government officially refer to the peak. Other local names have been suggested including Lamba Pahar ("Tall Mountain" in Urdu) and Dapsang, but are not widely used.^[xix]

With the mountain lacking a local name, the name Mount Godwin-Austen was suggested, in honour of Henry Godwin-Austen, an early explorer of the surface area. While the name was rejected by the Purple Geographical Society,^[19] it was used on several maps and continues to exist used occasionally.^{[23] [24]}

The surveyor's mark, K2, therefore continues to be the name by which the mountain is commonly known. It is now also used in the Balti language, rendered every bit Kechu or Ketu ^{[22] [25]} (Balti: کے چو Urdu: کے ٹو). The Italian climber Fosco Maraini argued in his account of the ascent of Gasherbrum Iv that while the name of K2 owes its origin to chance, its clipped, impersonal nature is highly advisable for so remote and challenging a mountain. He concluded that it was:

... just the bare bones of a proper name, all rock and ice and storm and abyss. It makes no attempt to sound human. Information technology is atoms and stars. It has the nakedness of the world before the beginning human being – or of the cindered planet later on the last.^[26]

André Weil named K3 surfaces in mathematics partly after the beauty of the mountain K2.^[27]

Geographical setting

Map including K2 (labelled as K2 (Mountain GODWIN AUSTEN) in upper left corner of map) (AMS, 1953)

K2 lies in the northwestern Karakoram Range. Information technology is located in the Baltistan region of Gilgit–Baltistan, Islamic republic of pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous Canton of Xinjiang, China.^[a] The Tarim sedimentary basin borders the range on the north and the Lesser Himalayas on the south. Cook waters from glaciers, such as those south and east of K2, feed agriculture in the valleys and contribute significantly to the regional fresh-h2o supply.^{[ citation needed ]}

K2 is ranked 22nd past topographic prominence, a measure of a mount's independent stature. Information technology is a part of the same extended area of uplift (including the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Himalaya) equally Mount Everest, and information technology is possible to follow a path from K2 to Everest that goes no lower than iv,594 metres (15,072 ft), at the Kora La on the Nepal/China border in the Mustang Lo. Many other peaks far lower than K2 are more than independent in this sense. It is, however, the almost prominent peak within the Karakoram range.^[2]

K2 is notable for its local relief likewise as its total height. It stands over iii,000 metres (9,840 ft) above much of the glacial valley bottoms at its base of operations. It is a consistently steep pyramid, dropping quickly in most all directions. The north side is the steepest: in that location it rises over 3,200 metres (10,500 ft) higher up the K2 (Qogir) Glacier in only 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) of horizontal distance. In most directions, it achieves over 2,800 metres (nine,200 ft) of vertical relief in less than 4,000 metres (13,000 ft).^[28]

A 1986 expedition led by George Wallerstein made an inaccurate measurement showing that K2 was taller than Mountain Everest, and therefore the tallest mount in the globe.^[29] A corrected measurement was made in 1987, but by then the merits that K2 was the tallest mountain in the world had already made it into many news reports and reference works.^[xxx]

Superlative

K2's top given on maps and encyclopedias is 8,611 metres (28,251 ft). In the summer of 2014, a Pakistani-Italian expedition to K2, named "K2 sixty Years Later", was organized to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the first ascension of K2. Ane of the goals of the expedition was to accurately measure the height of the mount using satellite navigation. The height of K2 measured during this expedition was eight,609.02 metres (28,244.eight ft).^{[31] [32]}

Geology

The mountains of K2 and Broad Top, and the surface area westward to the lower reaches of Sarpo Laggo glacier, consist of metamorphic rocks, known every bit the K2 Gneiss, and role of the Karakoram Metamorphic Complex.^{[33] [34]} The K2 Gneiss consists of a mixture of orthogneiss and biotite-rich paragneiss. On the south and southeast face up of K2, the orthogneiss consists of a mixture of a strongly foliated plagioclase-hornblende gneiss and a biotite-hornblende-Chiliad-feldspar orthogneiss, which has been intruded by garnet-mica leucogranitic dikes. In places, the paragneisses include clinopyroxene-hornblende-bearing psammites, garnet (grossular)-diopside marbles, and biotite-graphite phyllites. Near the memorial to the climbers who accept died on K2, above Base Camp on the south spur, thin impure marbles with quartzites and mica schists, called the Gilkey-Puchoz sequence, are interbanded within the orthogneisses. On the due west face up of Broad Height and south spur of K2, lamprophyre dikes, which consist of clinopyroxene and biotite-porphyritic vogesites and minettes, have intruded the K2 gneiss. The K2 Gneiss is separated from the surrounding sedimentary and metasedimentary rocks of the surrounding Karakoram Metamorphic Complex by normal faults. For example, a fault separates the K2 gneiss of the due east confront of K2 from limestones and slates comprising nearby Skyang Kangri.^{[33] [35]}

⁴⁰Ar/³⁹Ar ages of 115 to 120 million years ago obtained from and geochemical analyses of the K2 Gneiss demonstrate that information technology is a metamorphosed, older, Cretaceous, pre-collisional granite. The granitic precursor (protolith) to the K2 Gneiss originated as the result of the production of large bodies of magma by a northward-dipping subduction zone along what was the continental margin of Asia at that time and their intrusion as batholiths into its lower continental chaff. During the initial collision of the Asia and Indian plates, this granitic batholith was buried to depths of about 20 kilometres (12 mi) or more, highly metamorphosed, highly plain-featured, and partially remelted during the Eocene Period to form gneiss. Later, the K2 Gneiss was so intruded by leucogranite dikes and finally exhumed and uplifted along major breakback thrust faults during post-Miocene time. The K2 Gneiss was exposed every bit the entire K2-Broad Superlative-Gasherbrum range experienced rapid uplift with which erosion rates have been unable to keep pace.^{[33] [36]}

Climbing history

Early attempts

The west face of K2 taken from the Savoia Glacier, on the 1909 expedition

The mount was first surveyed by a British team in 1856. Team member Thomas Montgomerie designated the mountain "K2" for being the second acme of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4, and K5, but were eventually renamed Masherbrum, Gasherbrum Four, Gasherbrum Ii, and Gasherbrum I, respectively.^[37] In 1892, Martin Conway led a British expedition that reached "Concordia" on the Baltoro Glacier.^[38]

The offset serious try to climb K2 was undertaken in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein, Aleister Crowley, Jules Jacot-Guillarmod, Heinrich Pfannl, Victor Wessely, and Guy Knowles via the Northeast Ridge. In the early on 1900s, modern transportation did not exist in the region: it took "fourteen days just to reach the human foot of the mountain".^[39] After five serious and costly attempts, the team reached 6,525 metres (21,407 ft)^[twoscore]—although because the difficulty of the claiming, and the lack of modern climbing equipment or weatherproof fabrics, Crowley'due south argument that "neither man nor beast was injured" highlights the relative skill of the rise. The failures were also attributed to sickness (Crowley was suffering the remainder effects of malaria), a combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor weather conditions—of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the tape for the longest time spent at such an distance) but 8 provided clear atmospheric condition.^[41]

The next trek to K2, in 1909, led by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, reached an elevation of effectually vi,250 metres (xx,510 ft) on the Southward E Spur, now known as the Abruzzi Spur (or Abruzzi Ridge). This would somewhen become part of the standard road, but was abandoned at the time due to its steepness and difficulty. After trying and failing to find a viable alternative route on the Due west Ridge or the Northward East Ridge, the Duke declared that K2 would never be climbed, and the team switched its attention to Chogolisa, where the Duke came within 150 metres (490 ft) of the meridian before beingness driven back by a storm.^[42]

K2 from the east, photographed during the 1909 expedition

The side by side attempt on K2 was not made until 1938, when the Offset American Karakoram trek led by Charles Houston made a reconnaissance of the mountain. They ended that the Abruzzi Spur was the most practical route and reached a height of around eight,000 metres (26,000 ft) before turning back due to diminishing supplies and the threat of bad weather.^{[43] [44]}

The following year, the 1939 American Karakoram expedition led by Fritz Wiessner came within 200 metres (660 ft) of the tiptop but concluded in disaster when Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli, Pasang Kitar, and Pintso disappeared loftier on the mount.^{[45] [46]}

Charles Houston returned to K2 to lead the 1953 American expedition. The attempt failed after a storm pinned downward the team for x days at 7,800 metres (25,590 ft), during which fourth dimension climber Art Gilkey became critically ill. A drastic retreat followed, during which Pete Schoening saved almost the entire squad during a mass fall (known only equally The Belay), and Gilkey was killed, either in an barrage or in a deliberate attempt to avoid burdening his companions. Despite the retreat and tragic end, the expedition has been given iconic status in mountaineering history.^{[47] [48] [49]} The Gilkey Memorial was built in his retentiveness at the mountain's pes.^[50]

Success and repeats

The 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the elevation of K2 via the Abruzzi Spur on 31 July 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio, and the two climbers who reached the summit were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The team included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah, who had been a part of the 1953 American expedition. Too on the expedition were Walter Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter Amir Mehdi, who both proved vital to the expedition's success in that they carried oxygen tanks to 8,100 metres (26,600 ft) for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. The ascent is controversial because Lacedelli and Compagnoni established their campsite at a college pinnacle than originally agreed with Mehdi and Bonatti. It being too dark to arise or descend, Mehdi and Bonatti were forced to overnight without shelter above 8,000 metres leaving the oxygen tanks behind as requested when they descended. Bonatti and Mehdi survived, but Mehdi was hospitalised for months and had to have his toes amputated because of frostbite. Efforts in the 1950s to suppress these facts to protect Lacedelli and Compagnoni'south reputations as Italian national heroes were afterwards brought to light. Information technology was also revealed that the moving of the military camp was deliberate, a move apparently made because Compagnoni feared existence outshone by the younger Bonatti. Bonatti was given the blame for Mehdi's hospitalisation.^[51]

On 9 Baronial 1977, 23 years after the Italian expedition, Ichiro Yoshizawa led the 2nd successful ascent, with Ashraf Aman as the kickoff native Pakistani climber. The Japanese expedition took the Abruzzi Spur and used more 1,500 porters.^[52]

The third ascent of K2 was in 1978, via a new road, the long and corniced Northeast Ridge. The top of the route traversed left beyond the East Face to avoid a vertical headwall and joined the uppermost part of the Abruzzi road. This ascension was made past an American squad, led by James Whittaker; the top political party was Louis Reichardt, Jim Wickwire, John Roskelley, and Rick Ridgeway. Wickwire endured an overnight bivouac about 150 metres (490 ft) below the meridian, one of the highest bivouacs in history. This ascent was emotional for the American team, every bit they saw themselves as completing a task that had been begun by the 1938 squad 40 years before.^[53]

Another notable Japanese ascent was that of the difficult Northward Ridge on the Chinese side of the peak in 1982. A team from the Japan Mountaineering Association [ja] led past Isao Shinkai and Masatsugo Konishi [ja] put three members, Naoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino, and Yukihiro Yanagisawa, on the pinnacle on fourteen August. However Yanagisawa fell and died on the descent. Four other members of the team achieved the summit the next day.^[54]

The commencement climber to reach the pinnacle of K2 twice was Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj. Rakoncaj was a fellow member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (31 July 1983). Three years afterward, on v July 1986, he reached the peak via the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Height W Face solo) as a member of Agostino da Polenza's international trek.^[55]

The first adult female to summit K2 was Smoothen climber Wanda Rutkiewicz on 23 June 1986. Liliane and Maurice Barrard who had summitted later that solar day, fell during the descent; Liliane Barrard's body was found on nineteen July 1986 at the foot of the south face.^[56]

In 1986, ii Polish expeditions summitted via two new routes, the Magic Line^[57] and the Polish Line (Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski). Piotrowski barbarous to his death every bit the 2 were descending. This latter route has never been repeated.^{[ citation needed ]}

Thirteen climbers from several expeditions died in the 1986 K2 Disaster. Another six mountaineers died on 13 Baronial 1995, while eleven climbers died in the 2008 K2 disaster.^{[58] [59] [ citation needed ]}

Recent attempts

2004

In 2004, the Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontán became the oldest person e'er to summit K2, at the historic period of 65.^[60]

2008

On 1 Baronial 2008, a group of climbers went missing afterward a big piece of ice brutal during an barrage, taking out the stock-still ropes on part of the route; 4 climbers were rescued, just xi, including Meherban Karim from Pakistan^[61] and Ger McDonnell, the first Irish person to accomplish the tiptop, were confirmed dead.^[62]

2009

Despite several attempts, nobody reached the summit.^{[ commendation needed ]}

2010

On 6 August 2010, Fredrik Ericsson, who intended to ski from the summit, joined Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the style to the summit of K2. Ericsson fell 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) and was killed. Kaltenbrunner aborted her summit attempt.^[63]

Despite several attempts, nobody reached the elevation.^{[ citation needed ]}

2011

On 23 August 2011, a team of four climbers reached the summit of K2 from the North side. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the start adult female to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.^[64] Kazakhs Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov completed their eight-thousanders quest. The fourth team fellow member was Dariusz Załuski from Poland.^[65]

2012

The year started with a Russian team aiming for a first winter ascent. The expedition ended with the death of Vitaly Gorelik due to frostbite and pneumonia. The Russian team cancelled the rise.^[66] In the summer season, K2 saw a record oversupply standing on its pinnacle—28 climbers in a unmarried day—bringing the total for the yr to 30.^[67]

2013

On 28 July 2013, ii New Zealanders, Marty Schmidt and his son Denali, died after an avalanche destroyed their campsite. A guide had reached their camp, but said they were nowhere to be seen and the army camp tent showed signs of having been hit by an avalanche. British climber Adrian Hayes, who was with the group, later on posted on his Facebook page that the camp had been wiped out.^[68]

2014

On 26 July 2014, the first squad of Pakistani climbers scaled K2. There were 6 Pakistani and three Italian climbers in the trek, called K2 60 Years Later, according to BBC. Previously, K2 had only been summitted by individual Pakistanis equally part of international expeditions.^[69] Another team, consisting of Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita, Maya Sherpa, and Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, became the first Nepali women to climb K2.^[70]

On 27 July 2014, Garrett Madison led a squad of three American climbers and six Sherpas to summit K2.^{[71] [72]}

On 31 July 2014, Boyan Petrov completed the first Bulgarian ascension, just 8 days after climbing Broad Peak. Boyan is among the very few climbers with diabetes to climb in a higher place 7000 grand without the apply of supplemental oxygen.^[73]

2017

On 28 July 2017, Vanessa O'Brien led an international squad of 12 with Mingma Gyalje Sherpa of Dreamers Destination to the summit of K2 and became the commencement British and American woman to summit K2, and the eldest woman to summit K2 at the age of 52 years old.^[74] She paid tribute to Julie Tullis and Alison Hargreaves, two British women who summited K2, in 1986 and 1995 respectively, but died during their descents. Other notable summits included John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Dawa Gyalje Sherpa who joined his sister (Dawa Yangzum Sherpa), becoming the second set of siblings to summit K2.^[75] Both Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Fazal Ali recorded their 2nd K2 summits.^{[ citation needed ]}

2018

On 22 July 2018, Garrett Madison became the showtime American climber to achieve the summit of K2 more than in one case when he led an international team of viii climbers, ix Nepali Sherpas, four Pakistani high altitude porters, and two other Madison Mountaineering guides to the summit.^{[76] [77]}

On 22 July 2018, Polish mountaineer and mount runner Andrzej Bargiel became the first person to ski downwards from summit to base army camp.^[78]

2019

On 25 July 2019, Anja Blacha became the first German language adult female to summit K2. She climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen.^[79]

Wintertime expeditions

• 1987/1988 — Smooth-Canadian-British expedition led by Andrzej Zawada from the Pakistani side, consisting of 13 Poles, vii Canadians and 4 Brits. ii March Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy established camp Iii at 7,300 metres above sea, followed by Roger Mear and Jean-Francois Gagnon few days later. Hurricane winds and frostbite forced the team to retreat.^[80]
• 2002/2003 — Netia K2 Polish Winter Expedition. The squad of xiv climbers was led by Krzysztof Wielicki, and included four members from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Georgia. They intended to climb North Ridge. Marcin Kaczkan, Piotr Morawski and Denis Urubko established military camp 4 at seven,650 metres in a higher place sea level. The terminal rise started by Kaczkan and Urubko failed due to the destruction of the tent by harsh weather in camp IV and Kaczkan'southward cerebral edema.^[80]
• 2011/2012 — Russian expedition. Nine Russian climbers attempted K2's Abruzzi Spur route. They managed to reach 7,200 metres in a higher place sea level (Vitaly Gorelik, Valery Shamalo and Nicholas Totmyanin), simply had to retreat due to hurricane-forcefulness winds equally well every bit frostbite on both of Gorelik'south hands. Afterward their descent to base campsite and an unsuccessful call for Gorelik's evacuation (helicopter could non reach them through the worsening weather), the climber died of pneumonia and cardiac arrest. Post-obit the incident, the trek was called off.^{[80] [81]}
• 2017/2018 — Polish National Winter Expedition led by Krzysztof Wielicki, consisting of 13 climbers, started in the end of December 2017. The team initially attempted to summit via the south-southeastern spur (Cesen route), switching to the Abruzzi Spur after an injury on the previous route.^{[82] [83] [84] [85]} Via the Cesen/Basque route they reached upward to 6300 m, while on the Abruzzi Spur route they reached upwardly to 7400 k. However, Denis Urubko reported that during his solo endeavour he probably reached up to 7600 m.^[86]
• 2021 — X climbers from an international expedition made the first winter summit on 16 January 2021. The grouping all summited together, and consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. The summiting group consisted entirely of ethnic climbers from Nepal. Nirmal Purja was the only ane who reached the tiptop without the utilise of supplemental oxygen. The summit temperature was −40° Celsius. On the same twenty-four hours Spanish team member Sergi Mingote died on the descent from Camp Iii; he savage somewhere betwixt Camp I and Avant-garde Base of operations Campsite.^{[thirteen] [12] [87] [88] [89] [ninety] [91] [92] [93]} Other famous climbers who lost their lives on the same trek include Atanas Skatov,^{[94] [95] [96]} Ali Sadpara, and John Snorri.^{[97] [98]}

Climbing routes and difficulties

In that location are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties, the first being the extremely high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: at that place is only ane-3rd as much oxygen bachelor to a climber on the superlative of K2 as there is at sea level.^[99] The 2d is the propensity of the mountain to experience extreme storms of several days duration, which take resulted in many of the deaths on the peak. The third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mount, which makes retreat more difficult, particularly during a storm. Despite many attempts the first successful winter ascents occurred only in 2021. All major climbing routes lie on the Pakistani side.^{[ citation needed ]} The base of operations army camp is too located on the Pakistani side.^[100]

Abruzzi Spur

The southward side of K2 with the Abruzzi Spur route.

The standard route of ascension, used by 75% of all climbers, is the Abruzzi Spur,^{[101] [102]} located on the Pakistani side, commencement attempted by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909. This is the superlative'due south southeast ridge, rising above the Godwin-Austen Glacier. The spur proper begins at an altitude of 5,400 metres (17,700 ft), where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snowfall/ice fields, and some technical stone climbing on ii famous features, "House's Chimney" and the "Black Pyramid." Higher up the Blackness Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible "Shoulder", and thence to the summit. The terminal major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the "Bottleneck", which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of seracs that form an ice cliff to the e of the summit. It was partly due to the collapse of ane of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers reached the meridian in 2002 and 2003.^[103]

On 1 August 2008, xi climbers from several expeditions died during a serial of accidents,^{[62] [104]} including several water ice falls in the Bottleneck.^{[ citation needed ]}

N Ridge

The north side of K2. The Due north Ridge is in the eye of the picture show.

About opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge,^{[101] [102]} which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very hard access, involving crossing the Shaksgam River, which is a hazardous undertaking.^[105] In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at near two teams are encamped beneath the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi,^{[ citation needed ]} ascends a long, steep, primarily stone ridge to high on the mountain—Camp Iv, the "Eagle'southward Nest" at 7,900 metres (25,900 ft)—and and so crosses a dangerously slide-decumbent hanging glacier past a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.^{[ citation needed ]}

Besides the original Japanese ascension, a notable ascent of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Kid, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was done alpine style to a higher place Camp ii, though using some fixed ropes already put in place by a Japanese team.^[105]

Other routes

The routes climbed on the Northwest of the mountain. A: West Ridge; B: West Face; C: Northwest Ridge; D: North Ridge; E: Northeast Ridge

Because 75% of people who climb K2 use the Abruzzi Spur, these listed routes are rarely climbed. No one has climbed the East Face of the mountain due to the instability of the snow and water ice formations on that side.^[106] As well the East Face, the North Face has not still been climbed either. In 2007 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov intended to climb the K2's North Face just they were stymied past increasingly deteriorating conditions. Afterward finding their intended route menaced by growing barrage danger, they traversed onto the normal N Ridge route and summited on ii October 2007, making the latest summer season rising of the peak in history.^[107]

Northeast Ridge

Long and corniced, finishes on uppermost role of Abruzzi route. Ridge first crossed by a Polish trek led past Janusz Kurczab in 1976. The team was not able to tiptop due to poor weather.^[108] First climbed by Louis Reichardt and James Wickwire on 6 September 1978^[109]

Due west Ridge

First climbed in 1981 by a Japanese team.^[110] This route starts on the distant Negrotto Glacier and goes through unpredictable bands of rock and snowfields.^{[ commendation needed ]}

Southwest Pillar or "Magic Line"

Very technical, and second most demanding. Commencement climbed in 1986 past the Shine-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wróż-Božik. Since and so Jordi Corominas from Spain has been the just successful climber on this route (he summitted in 2004),^[111] despite many other attempts.^{[ commendation needed ]}

Southward Face up or "Smooth Line" or "Central Rib"

Extremely exposed, demanding, and dangerous. In July 1986, Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski summitted on this route. Piotrowski was killed while descending on the Abruzzi Spur. The road starts off the kickoff function of the Southwest Pillar, and then deviates into a totally exposed, snow-covered cliff expanse, so through a gully known as "The Hockey Stick", and then goes upwards to yet another exposed cliff-face up, and the route continues through yet another extremely exposed section all the way upward to the point where the route joins with the Abruzzi Spur nigh 300 m (1,000 ft) before the summit. Reinhold Messner called it a suicidal route and then far, no one has repeated Kukuczka and Piotrowski's achievement. "The route is so avalanche-prone, that no 1 else has e'er considered a new attempt."^{[112] [113]}

Northwest Face

First rising via this road was in 1990 past a Japanese team; this road is located on the Chinese side of the mountain. This route is known for its chaotic rock and snowfields all the way upwardly to the top.^[111]

Northwest Ridge

First climbed in 1991 by a French team: Pierre Beghin and Christophe Turn a profit. Finishes on North Ridge. 2nd endeavour in 1995 by an American team, they reached 8100 metres the ii August earlier turning back in deteriorating weather.^[114]

South-southeast spur or "Cesen route" or "Basque route"

It runs the pillar between the Abruzzi Spur and the Polish Road. It connects with the Abruzzi Spur on the Shoulder, in a higher place the Black Pyramid and below the Bottleneck; since it avoids the Black Pyramid, information technology is considered safer. In 1986, Tomo Česen ascended to 8,000 chiliad (26,000 ft) via this route. The first summit via this route was past a Basque squad in 1994.^[111]

West Confront

Technical difficulty at loftier altitude, first climbed by a Russian team in 2007.^[115] This road is nearly entirely made up of rock crevasses and snow-covered couloirs.^[111]

For most of its climbing history, K2 was not usually climbed with supplemental oxygen, and small, relatively lightweight teams were the norm.^{[101] [102]} All the same, the 2004 season saw a bang-up increase in the employ of oxygen: 28 of 47 summitteers used oxygen in that year.^[103]

Acclimatisation is essential when climbing without oxygen to avoid some degree of altitude sickness.^[116] K2's summit is well above the altitude at which high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), or high distance cerebral edema (HACE) can occur.^[117] In mountaineering, when ascending above an altitude of 8,000 metres (26,000 ft), the climber enters what is known every bit the death zone.^{[ citation needed ]}

Films

• K2 (1991), an gamble drama moving picture adaption of Patrick Meyers' original stage play, directed past Franc Roddam and loosely based on the story of Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt, the showtime Americans to summit K2
• Vertical Limit (2000), an American survival thriller film directed by Martin Campbell
• K2: Siren of the Himalayas (2012), an American documentary film directed by Dave Ohlson, that follows a group of climbers during their 2009 attempt to meridian K2 on the 100-year ceremony of the Knuckles of Abruzzi'due south landmark K2 trek in 1909
• The Summit (2012), a documentary motion-picture show near the 2008 K2 disaster, directed by Nick Ryan
• K2: The Impossible Descent (2020), a documentary pic about Smoothen ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel's 2018 K2 climb and descent on skis, directed by Sławomir Batyra and Steven Robillard

Disasters

• 1986 K2 disaster
• 1995 K2 disaster
• 2008 K2 disaster

Passes

Windy Gap is a 6,111-meter (xx,049 ft)-high mountain pass 35°52′23″Northward 76°34′37″E  /  35.87318°N 76.57692°East  / 35.87318; 76.57692 at east of K2, north of Broad Meridian, and south of Skyang Kangri.^{[ citation needed ]}

See also

• List of books almost K2
• Concordia
• Gilgit–Baltistan
• Kangchenjunga (3rd highest later on Everest and K2)
• List of deaths on viii-thousanders
• List of highest mountains
• Listing of mountains in Pakistan
• List of peaks past prominence
• List of tallest mountains in the Solar Organization
• Trans-Karakoram Tract

Notes

1. ^ ^{a b} K2 is located in Gilgit–Baltistan, a region, which along with Azad Kashmir, forms Pakistan administered Kashmir. The Kashmir region is currently the centre of a territorial dispute between Pakistan and India. India maintains a territorial dispute on Islamic republic of pakistan-administered Kashmir. As well, Pakistan maintains a territorial dispute on Jammu and Kashmir, the Indian-administered part of the region.
2. ^ The about obvious exception to this policy was Mountain Everest, where the Tibetan name Chomolungma (Qomolongma) was probably known, but ignored in club to pay tribute to George Everest. Meet Curran, pp. 29–30

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Bibliography

• Booth, Martin (2001) [2000]. A Magick Life: A Biography of Aleister Crowley (trade paperback) (Coronet ed.). London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN0-340-71806-4.
• Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Vicious Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN978-0-340-66007-2.
• McDonald, Bernadette (2007). Brotherhood of the Rope – The Biography of Charles Houston. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN978-0-89886-942-2.

External links

• Himalaya-Info.org page on K2 (German language)
• How high is K2 actually?—Measurements in 1996 gave 8614.27±0.half dozen chiliad a.m.due south.fifty
• Aleister Crowley'south business relationship of the 1902 K2 expedition
• The climbing history of K2 from the first endeavour in 1902 until the Italian success in 1954.
• "Sample of K2 affiche product including Routes and Notes" (PDF). (235 KB) From Everest-K2 Posters
• Northern Pakistan—highly detailed placemarks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and pocket-size tributaries in Google Globe
• "K2". SummitPost.org.
• K2 on GeoFinder.ch

• Map of K2
• List of ascents to December 2007
• 'K2: The Killing Peak' Men'southward Journal Nov 2008 feature
• Achille Compagnoni —Daily Telegraph obituary
• Dr Charles Houston —Daily Telegraph obituary
• k2climb.cyberspace

campbellhigend.blogspot.com

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K2

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